Surfing

Monday, 22nd March 2010

Today we started what I had been waiting for the the whole camp

...THE SURFING EXPEDITION...

The day started with the expected but still annoying packing up of the tents, water, boards, sleeping mats, trangias etc. I helped out as was expected but the whole time I just wanted to get out surfing. We got to our campsite, the better campsite being taken, I set up my tent once again with Ian. We finally got ready and piled into the bus and began our drive to Bewry Bay North where our three instructors were waiting. I as assigned my wetsuit, slightly big but still alright, and I chose a red rashy, because red makes you go faster. I carried by board, a white foam 7 footer down to the beach where I joined in the warm up run along the beach. Which was followed by stretches and finally we were up to being taught how to surf. We were taught how to paddle, get up and stand properly and I focused as hard as I could because I was a beginner and really wanted to get it right. With my short lesson over, I picked up my board and set off into the waves.

The water was beautiful and I was so glad to finally be in the sea and the waves. Which were reasonably small but I wasn't fussed and it was good because I could take some time to find my balance on the board. When I eventually found that balance, on a not to extraordinary wave (well, white wash) I was so happy I didn't want to get off, so I rode it all the way in as far as I could go in an effort to savour the moment. This is the moment when I gained my real hunger for surfing. I spent the day catching (and getting dumped by) waves but loving every moment. Eventually it had to end and I left the beach eager for what tomorrow would bring.

Tuesday, 23rd March 2010

A night spent with not quite enough warm clothing on and on some not so comfy bedding left me feeling a bit drowsy and uncomfortable in the morning. After a quick breakfast of Weet-bix we once again filed into the bus in our wetsuits and began our drive, this time to a beach called Baby Lizards. When we got there we had to carry our boards about 1km across a cliff to get to the beach, which was annoying. We then did more warm ups and once again hit the water and began our surfing. I found myself to be really improving and the whole time I was either surfing with Henry

or Alvin

Which was cool because they were both similar levels to me and we could talk when the waves weren't too big and share the funny moments. I managed to crash a lot, like when I was going to hit Henry, so I swerved, and ran into Owen, which sent me flying off my board. It was pretty sweet. Another time I was catching the white wash in next to Henry but I lost my balance, falling off my board and flinging it into Henry's legs, taking him out and creating a spectacle I wish I couldv'e saw but unfortunately couldn't because I was underwater. This wasn't the best moment. The best moment was when I actually RODE a wave, not the white wash, but actually went sideways and rode the wave as it crashed, it was so awesome and I managed to do it a couple of times. I couln't wait for tomorrow.

Wednesday, 24th March 2010

Our final day of the Surfing Expedition. Today we only got half of the day (compared to the whole day on Tuesday), which was annoying. We set off to Bewry Bay South which had a lot bigger waves compared to the other days. I thought this was going to be good, but it wasn't, the waves were big, but the were all dumpers, except for some which you could ride but it was hard. I spent the whole morning getting dumped and failing to catch the big ones and it was really frustrating. The only peron who could really do it was Hayden who was tearing it up. The rest of the day we had to pack up which was boring.